Guide to La Gomera

Beaches

Granted, La Gomera doesn't have much in the way of golden sands, but what it does have are hideaway coves, dramatic cliffs and all manner of secret caves. Plus there are black sandy beaches here and there – a reminder of the island's volcanic past. They may not look like your typical beach, but a quick paddle in the warm, clear waters will reassure you of La Gomera's Canary Islands credentials. The best tanning strips have been scooped up by Playa de Santiago, which has a real vintage feel, like something from an old, sepia-tinged photograph. The cutesy harbour forms the backbone of the shore, with its bobbing wooden boats and jetty stretching out to sea. The surrounding strips are made up of dark sand, smooth pebbles and rocks. But that's no bad thing - the flat rocks are as warm as electric blankets and the craggy stone pools make perfect wine coolers. For a bit more action, head over to San Sebastian. The 600-metre long strip of sand is reached by a shaded tunnel that leads through the port entrance of Marina la Gomera. Aside from the obligatory sand and surf, there's a handful of bars, restaurants and beach shacks selling water wings and buckets and spades. For something a tad different, check out Vallehermosa, famous for its curious-looking rocks called Los Organos. Aside from the usual beach-y bits and bobs, it boasts banana plants, sabine trees and hanging palms. And last but not least, there's the finest beach in town – Valle Gran Rey. This fertile area is surrounded by beautiful forests, excellent seafood restaurants and a quaint old port. But best of all - it's got mile upon mile of golden sand.

Eating out

When it comes to food, La Gomera favours the sort of earthy goodness that would have Jamie Oliver jumping for joy. Whether it's juicy tomatoes or succulent pineapples, Gomerians like their grub on the natural side. And if you've ever seen one of their giant avocadoes, which are the size of a rugby ball, you'd know they've got greener fingers than Alan Titchmarsh himself. Restaurant-wise, most places offer rural cuisine that's hearty and totally fuss free. The towns of Hermigua and Las Hayas have a fine selection of traditional eateries where the scenery is as rustic as the menu. Specialities include 'gofio', which tastes like mashed potatoes, but is actually made from roasted wheat and corn. It's usually served with watercress soup for a filling and unique meal. Another traditional treat is 'almogotre', a kind of cheese paste made from oil, pepper, tomatoes and garlic. It's usually spread on small squares of toast as a starter, or drizzled over potatoes as part of a main meal. Carnivores can tuck into the tender meat dishes, served with pickled vegetables and 'papas arrugadas' - potatoes with wrinkly, crispy skins. Try authentic Canarian recipes like 'carnede cabra en salsa', tender pieces of goat stewed in wine with aromatic herbs. And of course, we mustn't forget the Spanish classics like paella, made from assorted fish, chicken or pork and served with saffron rice. Then there's the ubiquitous tapas titbits. Cue small portions of cheese, cured ham, meatballs and fried squid. For seafood, make a beeline for Playa de Santiago. This place is famous for its fish restaurants, some of which are built into caves by the harbour. Aside from the fresh-out-the-net specials, try 'churros de pescado', a homemade version of fish cakes, served with 'mojo', a spicy dipping sauce. Finish off a meal with 'gofio de almendras', a heavenly dessert made with almonds or sink your teeth into exotic fruits like papaya, pineapple or prickly pear.

Nightlife

While other Canary Islands stay wide-eyed until dawn, La Gomera's lights are firmly out by sun up. There are places to go after dark, but don't expect any foam parties or two-for-one cocktails. However, that's not what this place is about. Here, nights revolve around restaurants, traditional 'tabernas' and soaking up the marvellous scenery. Over in Valle Gran Rey, seafood restaurants replace nightclubs and fresh fish are the superstars, rather than the DJs. Bar-wise, there's a few scattered here and there, some of which hold theme nights. These are usually Latin affairs, so expect plenty of brandy-laced sangria and syncopated flamenco beats. For something livelier, head over to San Sebastian. Here, the pace cranks up a notch and the nightlife's more chic than traditional. The bustling port's home to some open-air bars where cocktails and champagne are very much on the menu.

Shopping

If you're looking to pick up the latest Prada sunglasses, you may struggle in La Gomera. However, half the fun of Gomerian shopping is toddling around the tiny lanes, discovering cute and colourful bazaars, laden with knick-knacks and curious. Expect a barrage of handmade pots and vases, painted with intricate detail. Other popular choices are wicker baskets and ornaments, along with lace tablecloths and doilies. Over in Playa de Santiago there are two large supermarkets and a few shops selling clothes, sportswear and even electrical goods at rock bottom prices. Market-wise, San Sebastian's your best bet. On Wednesdays and Saturdays, traders set up stalls, hawking the ripest fruit and vegetables in town, with the odd souvenir thrown in for good measure. Hermigua in the north has labyrinthine streets, famous for its rugs and woven products, while the village of Arure in the Gran Rey Valley's famous for its 'miel de palma', or palm honey.